Climbing in Giudicarie

Climbing In Giudicarie title=

In the Giudicarie Centrali climbers can unleash their imagination on four different equipped crags in the villages of Coltura, Preore, Tione and Breguzzo.

Crags and Vie Ferrate in the Giudicarie Centrali 

CLIMBING IN THE GIUDICARIE These are excellent destinations for climbing fans, where experienced veterans can get a physical workout, challenge themselves and overcome their limits while beginners can turn to the Alpine Guides for sound tuition in learning the techniques of sport climbing.

1. COLTURA NATURAL CLIMBING WALL

The Coltura natural climbing wall is found on Provincial Road 34 of the Lisano, about 1 km east of Coltura village. The crag is relatively quiet, despite its roadside location. It has an excellent vertical or slightly overhanging limestone wall. There are equipped routes mainly at medium-high levels of difficulty. The exposure is varied (south-east and south-west) and allows climbing at different times of the day and season. The car park has a handy and scenic picnic area.
The first approaches were opened back in the 1960s by the Alpine School of the Tione Guardia di Finanza and the Tione SAT Group, who climbed the crag on its most prominent routes. Interest from local climbers later led to the systematic bolting of routes from above, specifically for free climbing and to find even more difficult paths. At Coltura, the concept of sport climbing evolved from traditional mountaineering: these are the pitches that saw rose from grade IV/A1 to modern difficulty levels. A number of old artificial routes have also been refastened with bolts to render them suitable for free-climbing. These are some of the most beautiful and difficult climbs on the entire wall.

Some routes can easily be combined with others; in particular, routes 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, can be combined with routes 12, 13, 14 and 15 overhead.
The descent of most routes is evident; in some cases, as marked in the sketch, abseiling is required; the itineraries that end at the top of the crag require a further short climb through the wooded area, taking you to a trail that leads back down to base.
The crag’s potential has not yet been fully exploited; new routes could be opened in certain areas, the most interesting of which are surely the overhanging south-west and south-east walls.

2. “CROZ DE LE NIERE” NATURAL CLIMBING WALL (PREORE)

The Preore crag is located in a beautiful natural setting. Just a short distance from the town, the crag has an abundance of easy pitches, which perhaps explains why it is one of the most popular climbs in the area. However, there is no shortage of sectors with hard pitches, including with overhangs, up to difficulty level 8. All the pitches in the El cos dei cros sector are splendidly scenic and medium in difficulty, while the pitches in the Formica and Lavarda sectors are still beautiful but less demanding. The La fata sector is notable for its eponymous – and admirable – sculpture.
For several years now, the Preore natural climbing wall has been considerably enhanced by local mountaineers. Easy access and excellent exposure have encouraged the rediscovery of these walls, allowing a large group of climbers to practice their sport practically all year round.
Since the wall is completely south-facing, it can be climbed more or less at any time of the year despite its mid-mountain environment (550 m above sea level). In addition to the southern exposure, the rock type (limestone) also aids rapid drying.
By applying the technique of fastening from above and the use of bolts, previously inaccessible walls can now be tried out and enjoyed. The Preore natural climbing wall covers a very wide area; it is referred to locally as “Nière”, which is why it can offer new possibilities of development in the little known areas. Below, we recommend some combinations to better enjoy the climbing possibilities offered by the wall. Next to the Croz de le Niere wall is another crag called Col del Frate, discovered and equipped by local climbers.

Ideal combinations:

No. 1: Via Diedro 84, Via dei No Bò, Via Tecnologia, with an extension of 130 m.
No. 2: Via Cavalcando l'Asino, Via dell'Equivoco, Via Pasion Gaiarda, with an extension of 230 m.
No. 3: Via Diedro 84, Via Preore, Via Per Lei, with an extension of 160 m.


3. TIONE NATURAL CLIMBING WALL

If you start out from Piazza Brevine and go up Via dei Monti di Tione, after about 100 metres you will see a limestone outcrop on the left, varying in height from 10 to 25 metres. This historic crag equipped mainly by the CAI di Tione is excellent for beginners or anyone who wants to have fun with unchallenging difficulty levels. The pitches are well protected and predominantly slab, although there is no lack of edges, dihedrals, short roofs and short overhangs. It gets a lot of sun at the base, so it’s best to avoid the hottest summer days.

Position
Name
Difficulty
Lenght
1
Aldebaran
5b
18 m
2
The Doctor
5b
12 m
3
Zia Mariota
5a
12 m
4
Ave Cesare
6a
18 m
5
Cip e Ciop
6b
18 m
6
Paperoga
6c
18 m
7
Yoghi
6c
18 m
8
Babu
6b +
20 m
9
The Bike
6a +
16 m
10
Cadeto
6b
18 m
11
Guide Alpine
6c +
16 m
12
Olimpia
6b +
16 m
13
Chiaretta
6b +
18 m
14
Sol Levante
6c
18 m
15
Spike e Span
5c
16 m
16
Fiamme Gialle
5c +
16 m
17
Cavrarole
6 a
12 m
18
Arcangelo
6a +
12 m
19
Maverik
6b
12 m
20
Tizzi
6b +
12 m

4. Palestra di roccia di Breguzzo

Splendida falesia con un discreto numero di tiri in gran parte molto tecnici e su roccia ottima. Le difficoltà sono medio alte. La roccia offre una scalata varia che alterna passi molto fisici a movimenti delicati, con tiri di passo singolo e di resistenza estrema, prevalentemente in strapiombo nella parte centrale.

La parete, ottimamente attrezzata da Bruno Ferrari ha esposizione sud est e la base ottimamente ombreggiata da un bel bosco di latifoglie e conifere.

* Testi e disegni tratti da "Palestre di roccia delle Giudicarie" di Francesco Leardi e Paolo Paletti, Manfrini Editori, Calliano, 1986.

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